Dearth/Alex's Customs and Dioramas v2

Dearth

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2009
Messages
873
Reaction score
189
Glad I was able to help. Just remember, if you're gonna get rid of the broken parts, I can probably find a use for them. Scooter hands, even broken ones, are always useful for customs. All my Strangepork customs have Scooter hands.

Alex
 

Muppetaz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
184
Reaction score
19
I have another question, to harden the clay do you put the figure in the oven?
 

Muppetaz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
184
Reaction score
19
I mean would it damage the base figure? Is there a specific way to do it? And if you do put it in the oven how long would I bake it?
 

GAR

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2012
Messages
14
Reaction score
15
I mean would it damage the base figure? Is there a specific way to do it? And if you do put it in the oven how long would I bake it?
I always use Aves Apoxie Sculpt. That is a two part self hardning sculpting material that completely dries rock hard without baking it and without shrinking. It takes some time to get to know the material but it really is great for customizing as you don't have to put it in the oven and afterwards you can drill holes in it or sand it.

That said, there is no way to sculpt on a figure without damaging the original figure. That is why I only work with figures that are already damaged. But at least with Apoxie Sculpt there is no risk of any plastic melting in the oven. Hope that helps. I guess it is just trial and error for everybody and stick with what feels best for you. There is not 'one way' to get a custom figure done.
 

Muppetaz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
184
Reaction score
19
Thank you, I acualy already sculpted me figure with super sculpey, do you know how I should harden it?
 

Muppetaz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
184
Reaction score
19
Never mind, It worked at 350 degrees for about 5 minutes.
 

Dearth

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2009
Messages
873
Reaction score
189
A better way to cure the Sculpey is to boil it. I haven't baked Sculpey in the oven in nearly 20 years. Too risky to the figure, and it stinks.

Alex
 

Muppetaz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
184
Reaction score
19
Thanks. Sorry for asking so many questions, but how do you paint the figures without the paint creating bumps on the surface and where can I find a replacment flower for the one that comes on gonzo?
 

Dearth

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2009
Messages
873
Reaction score
189
The bumps could be a result of many different things:

They may be present in the Sculpey, and just harder to see until it gets painted.

If you're brushing on the paint, it could be something on the surface of the item or in the bristles of the brush, or perhaps the paint needs to be thinned.

If you're spraying the paint on, it could be a reaction to dust or even skin oils on the figure, or possibly the humidity is trapping moisture in the paint as it is sprayed on.

So without being there and knowing exactly what's causing it, here is just some general advice...

Be sure to prep your surfaces before painting. You may wish to sand the Sculpey with a very fine-grit sandpaper. Whether you sand or not, make sure the surfaces to be painted are clean and dust-free. Rinsing them in soapy water is a good idea.

Wash your hands frequently when handling an item that is to be painted. The oils in your skin are constantly contaminating the prepped surface. I even know some people who wear latex gloves when painting, although I prefer not to.

If you're brushing on the paint, it's always better to do several thin coats than one thick one. Acrylic paints can be thinned with water, and are my medium of choice. Enamel paints will require a chemical paint thinner, which leads to more dangerous fumes to inhale, so please be careful. You've only got one set of lungs, so take care of them.

If you're spraying on the paint, it obviously MUST be done outdoors (unless for some reason you actually want chemical pneumonia, which I contracted once when using gold spray-paint to finish a stage set in a hurry... and believe me, you DON'T actually want chemical pneumonia!) But the outside temp and humidity do affect the spray-paint's behavior, so you just have to learn when it 'feels' optimal outside for painting. Too cold, the paint will go on thick. Too hot, it will stay tacky and melty for longer. Too moist outside, you're gonna get water inclusions as the paint goes through the air.

Hope these tips come in handy.

As for Gonzo's flower, I'll keep an eye open for one, but I don't think I have one loose by itself. Not sure what you might want to use for a substitute... I've considered just filling in the hole in the jacket left by removing the flower before, but never found a flexible material that worked in the rubbery jacket, to my satisfaction.

Alex
 
Top